Monday, July 28, 2008

Seasonal dinner

You can't read the news these days without hearing about local food, carbon footprint, and all that shit. While I'm happy to support local businesses and farms, I'm not convinced that eating "local" is necessarily the best way to live. For example, if you live in New England, does that mean you never eat citrus? What about olive oil, or wine? I suppose Westport Rivers makes great local wines, but wouldn't you want a bit more choice than that? Also, will a local tomato ever beat a canned san marzano tomato at its peak ripeness? If you live in Iowa, are you only allowed to eat corn? Seriously, where do you draw the line?
I don't think I can ever do the real locavore thing. I need ethnic food--Chinese, Indian, Italian, Mexican, Thai, French, everything. That's the best part about food!!! All the crazy ingredients from different cultures, mixing things together, learning about all the foods of the world. How sad to limit yourself to only what comes out of the ground immediately surrounding you! There's got to be some middle ground, right? Where you can support your local farmers, but not limit yourself to potatoes and kale in winter?

In any case, here's a dinner we made including some local ingredients:
Local corn, red peppers, shallots, shiitake, and maitake mushrooms sauteed with butter and olive oil, finished with scallions and basil. Sauteed pork chop with pan jus, and gooseberry sauce (finished with poire william liquor).


We also had a totally non-local cheese plate:
Speck, toscano, morbier, laguiole, roaring 40's blue, and olives


Finished with chunk monkey ice cream.

Sunday, July 27, 2008

Ultimate green beans?

I absolutely love green beans. How come they seem so difficult to cook? I've burned them, had them totally raw, flavorless, you name it. I think, after many, many attempts, I've figured out a decent method for making really good green beans.

First, get a pan screaming hot. I mean really f'ing hot. Get some olive oil in there, or some oil that won't light on fire when it's really hot. Throw in the green beans, and toss in some salt. Don't touch them for ~30-45 seconds. Then start stirring and let them brown a bit. After another minute, add about 1/4 cup of water and turn down the heat. Cover for a few minutes to let the green beans cook through. Then, the key ingredients: shrimp paste and cock sauce (no, not THAT kind, you sicko, the chili garlic variety!), and chopped garlic. Let that all cook down for a few minutes, and you're done!

Neptune Oyster

So after our sub-par New Orleans oyster experience, we were craving some "real" oysters (sorry NOLA, we love ya, but your oysters are yucky). We've been wanting to go to Neptune Oyster for a while, and finally made it yesterday.

Menus:


Started out with several varieties:
Island Creeks, kumamotos, Royal Miyagi, and two other kinds I can't remember :-(


Blue marlin tartare, with stone fruit, pea puree, and parmesan arancini (which was more like a patty). The tartare had ginger bits, and was extremely tasty.


Fried soft shell crab. Although the crab itself was just a tiny tad tough, the preparation was incredible. The avocado crab salad made a perfect bed for the fried crab, and the sweet corn provided a great sweet accompaniment.


We really enjoyed this meal. For drinks, we had glasses of muscadet and chenin blanc with the oysters (muscadet was a great match). With the soft shell crab, we asked to split a glass of the d'Arenberg hermit crab. The waitress gave us two very generous half glasses of this very tasty wine. Overall, we felt this was a very good value, and we're really glad we finally made it!

One nice-ish dinner

We've been trying (mostly unsuccessfully) to eat lighter meals. We did manage to put together a nice small meal not long ago:

Flan with whipped potato and caviar. The flan was surprisingly successful--2 eggs, ~1/3 can of evaporated milk, salt and pepper blended together. The key was using the hand blender, and not beating extra air into the mix. I tossed in some sauteed shallots, then baked it in a water bath (in the toaster oven!). The egg came out custardy and smooth. We topped it with some mashed potato and some type of fish egg we got as a gift. Really yummy.


Veggie soup "foamed" in the iSi whip. We cooked down red pepper, onion, tomato, garlic, and some broth, then blended it up. For the shrimp, we made a chorizo oil, then slow-cooked the shrimp in the oil. They had an amazing flavor.

Some relatively recent dinners

We've been trying to cook more this summer. It's certainly easier than during the school year, when I eat complete crap most days. I now present a few of our more successful dishes:

Shrimp and mashed potatoes in a garlic cream sauce. We cooked the shrimp in the garlic cream over very low heat. Mmmmmmm.


Cauliflower soup with sauteed ramps.


Pork chop with jicama slaw and mashed potatoes. We recently tried jicama for the first time, and it makes a great refreshing salad.


Thai tomato soup, seasoned with ginger, garlic, coconut, lime, chili garlic sauce, fish sauce, topped with fresh scallions:


Leftover bbq pork, served over polenta with a fried egg and hot sauce.


We had some leftover thai tomato soup, so we lightly poached some cod in it, and garnished with watercress.


More pork chop, with sauteed apples, and an apple celerly root slaw.


One really tasty dessert: grilled white nectarines with melon-ginger-yogurt soup.

Friday, July 25, 2008

Eating at Tales (aka what we did when we weren't drunking)

People aren't kidding when they say New Orleans has great food. We ate some fantastic food, but I wish we could have tried more. Here's my best attempt to remember all our meals:
Started out at Napolean House. Great atmosphere, exactly what you'd think of a New Orleans institution. The muffaletta was quite good, but I can imagine a better one (it was a bit doughy). Jambalaya and gumbo were very tasty.

Afternoon snack at Acme Oyster:
Oysters were not very good, in my opinion...bland and mushy. I highly prefer East or West coast oysters:

Oyster po-boy was pretty tasty though:


Dinner at Cochon. Oh my, this place is sooooooo good. We tried almost every appetizer, a bunch of entrees, several sides, and desserts too. Also, we had a great sparkling gruener veltliner, some other wine, and got into a shot war with a table of New Yorkers. More good times. Anyway, it was so good, we went back two nights later and got some pictures:
Fried pig ear: nice texture, decent flavor, but I still prefer chinese style...


Fried rabbit liver with pepper jelly and mint. WOW. I could eat many, many orders of this:


Head cheese, compliments of the chef. Possibly the best I've ever tried. So soft and flavorful:


Pickled pork tongue with tomato salad. Great flavor on the tongue (haha), but the tomatoes were a bit unripe:


Ribs with pickled watermelon rind. The meat was juicy and tender, and the sweet, tangy watermelon rind made a great accompaniment:


Crawfish pie. Also very yummy, the pastry was fantastic:


Jalapeno spoonbread with okra and beans: probably my least favorite dish, but still quite good:


Crawfish and green tomato casserole: incredibly good. The sides at Cochon are amazing.


Eggplant and shrimp: this may have been the best thing we ate all trip. It's a mixture of eggplant, shrimp, grits, peppers, scallions, and topped with cheese. It is so ridiculously good, I can't even explain it.


I was too full to appreciate dessert the first night, and we didn't even try on the second visit.

Thursday lunch didn't sit well with me (I can't imagine why, after only ~15 drinks the day before). We went to Mr. B's Bistro for the bbq shrimp and pasta jambalaya. They tasted good enough that I wanted to go back when I was in better shape, which we did a couple days later.

bbq shrimp in New Orleans is basically jumbo shrimp swimming in a butter and pepper sauce. So messy and delicious, with bread to soak up the sauce. This isn't diet food!


Mr B's also makes a great pasta jambalaya, with spinach fettuccini, really nice andouille sausage, shrimp, and chicken (dry and useless):


We also had dinner at Herbsaint, which has co-owners with Cochon. Although a bit fancier than Cochon, the food wasn't quite as good. Appetizers were generally solid, but some of the entrees were just okay.

Johnny's Po-boy: we got a hot sausage and a roast beef po-boy. I thought the hot sausage was unexpectedly delicious, but the roast beef was a bit dry.

Oh yeah, we also ate at Subway. Mmmmmm.

Tales of the Cocktail 2008

Last week we spent four days in New Orleans at Tales of the Cocktail. We had a great Boston group, and got a chance to meet a bunch of new people. Immediately after arriving at the airport, we headed out for lunch at Napolean House, complete with muffaletta sandwiches, gumbo, and Pimm's cups. Yum. After checking in at the Hotel Monteleone (haha), we stopped in a few tasting rooms. Some of the drinks were decent, but a lot were just blah. We'll have to work our way through all the booklets and recipes we brought back. I got a some pictures at a couple of the more interesting tasting rooms:

Cruzan rum:


They had samples of intermediates in the distilling process, and we got to smell all the nasty stuff they pull off as they make the final product. Very informative.

G'vine:

A gin made from grapes, infused with flowers from grape vines. It was really cool to smell the different components of the gin, then taste the final product.

We also enjoyed the Don Julio tequila, especially the bianco. We didn't stick around long enough to try the Rare, because the rep wouldn't stop blabbing.

Some of the drinking highlights/lowlights of the trip included:
Daquiri party: stickiest floor I have ever stood on. Seriously, our feet were glued to the floor. Daquiris were unmemorable.
Old Absinthe House: we ended up here on several evenings. Mostly we sent other people nasty drinks such as jaeger bombs. I stuck with beer, but vaguely remember having some Averna and green chartreuse.
St. Germain suite: We went the first night, and it was surprising how many bartenders acted like they'd never seen alcohol before. Many of them were severely fucked up. A considerable amount of drinking out of bottles occurred (tequila, scotch, averna, st. germain, and averna mixed with st. germain...yuck). Good times, though :-) Oh, and they had great posters:

We got a hurricane on Bourbon St just for shits and grins. We avoided the hand grenades though.
Vaughn's: we drank them out of Miller High Life. 'Nuf said.
The total shitshow that was Bartender's Breakfast: approximately 700 degrees and humid (INDOORS!!!). The bartenders ran out of mixers, and were just pouring booze into buckets. I sort of remember having a watermelon, maple syrup, and gin drink. It wasn't as bad as it sounds, but I don't think I'll try it at home.
If you count coffee drinking, Saturday night/Sunday morning at Cafe du Monde was one of the most hilarious experiences I can remember. Powdered sugar fights, randomly singing "ole, ole, ole" (that soccer chant...I know you know what I mean), dudes in black trench coats with light sabre umbrellas, etc.

Our livers are still recovering, but it was an absolutely fantastic time. So much fun.

Thursday, July 24, 2008

Lala Rokh

We went to Lala Rokh (Persian) in Beacon Hill for the first time the other night with a couple friends. The food was generally good, but they had a pretty big private party, so the kitchen was quite slow. We started with an eggplant and tomato appetizer, which also had some yellow peas or lentils, yogurt, and crispy caramelized shallot. I love eggplant, and really liked this starter. For entrees we had duck leg with a walnut pomegranate sauce (very interesting, tangy, sweet and rich, and the duck was very moist) and lamb with spinach and spices (good, but not as good as the duck).
While I enjoyed the food and company, and I'm certainly glad we tried it, I didn't think it was the best value. Entrees were $20-25, appetizers around $8-10. Not expensive, but I feel like we can get much better food for those prices. For example, I'd go to Tamarind Bay every time given the choice (not that Persian food is the same as Indian, but comparing quality, service, and presentation). It also reminds me how impressive it is when restaurants can produce really great food and service without charging a ton.

Wednesday, July 23, 2008

Comfort food

Mac n' cheese is one of those foods that is so simple, but can be so good. Last night we went to ES, and I got the mac n' cheese, which I hadn't had in over a year. Probably the best I've ever had. It was oozing with gruyere and studded with ham, topped with perfectly brown crunchy crumbs. It was even better at lunch today, and since I hadn't been drinking, I noticed the black pepper and bits of scallion throughout. I'm afraid I'll never be able to make mac n' cheese this good at home, because I'm incapable of using the requisite amount of butter, cheese and salt, then eating what I know is a total fat bomb. Unfortunately, I will also crave this dish, and be forced to order it frequently!

Tuesday, July 22, 2008

More more old LJ stuff (2007)

Ah, the danger of eGullet...We ordered a coffee roaster, which arrived a couple weeks ago:



It's very simple--mainly a heater/fan with a timer. It came with some beans, which make some pretty boring coffee, but it's nice to be able to roast beans to an un-burned doneness. I actually can no longer drink Starbucks because it just tastes like burning. The interesting thing is that freshly roasted beans are quite acidic, and take a day to mellow out. We got some more green beans from Whole Foods which have a much better flavor than the generic ones, but we'll probably look into internet sources soon. If anyone else wants to jump on the coffee roasting bandwagon let me know and we can order in bulk!

--------------------------------

As most of you know, we've really gotten into cocktails lately, and have built up quite a decent bar. We got a request recently to get a list of what we have, so here goes (starred items are ones we use regularly):

Whisk(e)y:
*Thomas Handy Rye (our of our favorites for sipping, barrel proof)
**Rittenhouse 100 Rye (great for mixing and sipping, so cheap)
Old Overholt Rye (mixing only)
Old Portrero 18th century style whisky (100% rye, too assertive for sipping, not our favorite)
*George T Stagg Bourbon (great for sipping, barrel proof)
*Oban 14 year
The Balvenie 10 year
*Buchannan 12 year blended
Maker's Mark Bourbon (good for mixing)
Southern Comfort

Gin:
Hendricks
**Tanquaray
*Junipero
Corenwyn Ginever

Rum:
Ron Zacapa 23 Anos
Bacardi 8
*Old Monk (Indian rum, butterscotch flavors)
Khukri (Nepalese, tastes like molasses)
*Mount Gay Eclipse (light rum)
Parrot Bay coconut rum

Tequila:
El Tesoro Añejo

Vodka:
Vermont Gold
Luksusowa
Green Tea infused
Szechuan pepper infused
Earl Gray infused

Brandy:
Laird's Applejack
*Laird's Straight Apple Brandy (100 proof, really great stuff)
Laird's 12 year old rare apple brandy (nice for sipping, probably wouldn't buy it again)
Bas Armagnac Marie Duffau Hors d'Age
*Christian Brothers VS (for mixing)

Fruit flavored things:
*Luxardo Triplum (triple sec, really good)
*Marie Brizard Apry (so good)
Marie Brizard Poire William (sweet pear liqueur, we're not really sure what to do with this)
Marie Brizard Parfait Amour (perfumy, citrusy, really sweet)
*Mandarin Napoleon
Bauchant Napoleon
*Cherry Heering
Cassis de Bordeaux
Midori
Peach Schnapps
Creme de Banane
Blue curacao
Sloe Gin

Other Liqueurs:
**Luxardo Maraschino (awesome)
*Benedictine
**Green Chartreuse
*Yellow Chartreuse
Strega
Galliano
Amaretto
Pims
Creme de menthe
Creme de cacao
Bailey's
Kahlúa
Buttershots
Sambuca
Absente

Bitters:
*Fernet Branca
Luxardo Fernet
*Amer Picon
*Punt e Mes
*Fee's orange bitters
*Regan's orange bitters
Fee's peach bitters
Fee's old fashion aromatic bitters
*Angostura bitters
*Peychaud's bitters
*Campari

Wine base:
Vya sweet vermouth
*Noilly Prat dry vermouth
*Cinzano sweet vermouth
Dubonnet Rouge

Non-alcoholic:
*Grenadine (homemade 1:1 sugar:POM)
**Fresh lemons
**Fresh limes
Orange flower water
Rose-flavored syrup

----------------------------------

Lots of drinks recently, maybe too many :-P Here are a few good ones:

Sazerac with Anchor Brewing Co. Old Potrero 18th Century rye:
2 1/2 oz rye
1/2 oz simple syrup
3 dashes peychaud's bitters
1 dash angostura bitters

rinse glass with absente

This was super good...the old potrero is normally ridiculously agressive, but it was great in this drink


Old Monk Daquiri:
1 1/2 oz old monk rum
3/4 oz lemon juice
1/2 oz marie brizard poire william
1/4 oz simple syrup

Variation on the Apple Pie Cocktail (from cocktaildb.com)
1 oz light rum
1 oz sweet vermouth
1/2 oz lemon juice
1/2 oz marie brizard poire william
1/4 oz grenadine

More old LJ stuff (2007)

Last night (Sunday), we went to Uni on the spur of the moment. There were actually seats at the sushi bar, so we sat there and ordered a sushi tasting menu. It was really, really good, and I wish I brought my camera because the presentations were gorgeousssssss ;-)

Started with the typical tomato water martini...so yummy.

Needlefish, watermelon radish, shiso vinaigrette

Rudderfish, red onion, garlic ponzu, pea tendril

Penshell, mango lassi, aji pepper, red shiso: served in a giant shell...the penshell is like a huge, very firm scallop.

Hobu (sea robbin?), spiced orange, blood orange slices, blood orange foam, jalepeno salt

Sea bream, toasted rice foam, japanese plum, onion sesame vinaigrette

Horse mackerel, sea grapes (like tiny bundles of caviar!), aji pepper, rhubarb: nice and fishy/meaty

Pink sea bream, japanese artichoke, red shiso/miso vinaigrette: one of my favorites

Uni, ginger shoots, purple rice flake, and yuzu: I requested this because I was craving uni...mmmmmmm

Bluefin o-toro, pickled mustard seeds, miso mignonette, caviar: this was ridiculously rich and good

Tuna tataki, seared foie gras, cilantro puree, aji dressing, pear & elderberry puree, pickled radish: two cubes of barely seared tuna topped with perfectly seared foie gras...WOW

Pineapple jasmine cloud, black sesame, raspberry coulis, green apple wasabi sorbet, kaffir lime cream and toasted rice: This dessert was awesome...so light, lots of flavors, but they all went together. The "cloud" was so tasty and had great texture.

Milk chocolate geode, hazelnut praline & sorbet, violet coulis, cassis meringue (eggless): the "geode" was made using a balloon and liquid nitrogen, and the hazelnut had a nice saltiness.

While the sushi was great and creative, I thought the desserts were really outstanding. We had a couple nice selections of sake too. Sunday night seems like a good time to go, since the sushi bar wasn't too crowded.

Some old LJ posts (2007)


This is about 3 weeks old, but on the first nice weekend of the year, we went to my parents' place to grill.

Shrimp with salt, pepper, olive oil and tons of garlic:


Grilled chicken (marinated with lemongrass, fish sauce, chili garlic sauce, honey, soy sauce, sesame oil, ginger, garlic, and some other stuff I can't remember) and eggplant (just salt, pepper and oil):


Spare ribs (3 hours in a low oven, then finished on the grill for 30 minutes):


(leftovers with bbq sauce and mashed potatoes with peas)

We had leftover spice rub for the ribs, so I marinated some extra chicken thighs with it. The next day, just threw it in the oven topped with some chopped fresh tomatoes....so easy and really tasty:


------------------------------------

Lamb spring rolls. We used the thin-sliced frozen lamb from the Asian market tossed with sesame oil, soy sauce and chili garlic sauce, and some marinated cabbage. On another night, we made more with shredded cucumber instead of cabbage. Yum!


Baby mustard greens sauteed with garlic and black beans


Spaghetti with a sauce of bacon, tuna, peas, onions and tomatoes, finished with a bit of cream:


Cauliflower soup again (chicken broth, water, cream, nutmeg) topped with bacon, carmelized onions, garlic and scallions:


Toasts with wild smoked salmon, cucumber and goat cheese foam. The "foam" was a bit of a disaster...we tried using gelatin with the iSi Whip for the first time, so it was a mix of milk, gelatin and goat cheese. I think we didn't let the mixture chill enough before trying to make the foam, so it deflated instantly. Oh well.


--------------------------------
We started with a roasted beet, scallop and dill goat cheese napoleon, with arugula salad on the side, and beet pureed with balsamic and some water:

The goat cheese was thinned with a bit of milk and mixed with fresh dill, and the scallops were halved and pan seared.

Curried sweet potato soup with yogurt and scallion oil:


We found ramps at Russo's that morning for the first time in 3 years! We cooked them with some bacon and browned butter, served over parmesan risotto:


Originally I wanted to make gnocchi, but that was this week's kitchen disaster. The potato turned to paste as I was mashing it. Yuck.

Asian-style braised pork belly over pickled cabbage (rice vinegar, sugar, salt, long pepper and sesame oil):

We let the cabbage pickle for a few days, and the pork belly braised for ~4 hours. Mmmmmmm fat.

Jason brought a nice light dessert of cantaloupe, raspberry sorbet, passionfruit sorbet and moscato:

--------------------------------------
Once again, a few quick weekday dinners:

With the leftover risotto we had from the weekend, we made risotto cakes stuffed with mushroom, ramps and bacon. It was kind of a pain in the ass to form and bread these, but that was basically all the work involved. Sauce was extra stuffing mixed with tomato.



Chinese celery with five spice tofu. So easy and yummy.


Mustard greens with chick peas and kidney beans (canned), and indian spices (cumin, tumeric, chili, cardamom, ginger, garlic and sugar). Served with plain yogurt on the side.


Orchiette with spicy sausage, zucchini and tomato.

-------------------------------------
a looooooong time ago, we made this dinner:

Broccoli cheese soup with lots of sharp cheddar on top:


Creamy pasta with bacon and strips of celery root:

This was just okay, not as good as I hoped

Whole striped bass en papillote, with ginger, garlic, lemon grass, thai basil, serrano chilis, red bell pepper, scallion, soy, lime and bourbon:


Possibly the freshest fish I've ever purchased...the thing was flopping around like crazy until the fish guy whacked it on the head

Steamed pork spareribs with black bean and garlic, plated with some brown rice and baby chinese cabbage:

-------------------------------
Food from the last couple weeks:

Baked ziti with green bell peppers, tomatoes, bacon and onions. The base was a bechamel sauce with mozzerella:


Broccoli cooked with garlic and chorizo:


Very flat potato latkes. These were really crispy and good, but I think I like them fatter...mmmmm fat:


Sesame noodles with cabbage and chicken. We marinated the cabbage overnight with soy sauce, lots of rice vinegar, sugar, red pepper flakes and salt. The next day we cooked the chicken with lots of ginger and some soy sauce, then shredded it into the cabbage, and added spaghetti, then doused the whole thing with sesame oil and chili garlic sauce. Yum.


Long peppers: they're like a spicy but less numbing version of a szechuan peppercorn. We had apple slices topped with goat cheese, long pepper and olive oil:


Broccoli rabe with spicy turkey sausage. Kind of boring but tasty:


Chicken stew with mushrooms, carrots, bacon, onion, thyme, red wine and stock. Served over cheesy polenta...sooooo good:


Frisee salad with pistachios, bacon and mustard/sherry vinegar dressing:


Sauteed mustard greens with garlic and mashed potatoes:



From top center to the right are asian pear with fresh goat cheese and long pepper, humboldt fog, and a pyrenees sheep milk cheese with figs soaked in sherry.

We fabricated the duck, and we made confit with the legs and wings. We served it over frisee with dried cherries, pistachios and an orange/mustard dressing:


Then, mushroom soup topped with a chestnut foam (yay iSi whip!). During the afternoon, we put on a big pot of duck and chicken bones for stock, which we used in the soup. Also in the dish are sauteed mushrooms (with garlic, sherry and bacon), crispy shallots, thyme and strips of speck ham:

There was a bit too much going on (in my opinion), but still tasty.

Five spice duck breast with mashed white sweet potato (with ginger and cinnamon) and brussels sprouts with chili garlic sauce and fish sauce. Boy is that fish sauce stinky!


For dessert, my first attempt at creme brulee, this was flavored with earl gray (idea stolen from Eastern Standard)

The custard wasn't as smooth as I hoped, but it tasted good and we got a nice crunchy crust.

To drink, we had a 1999 Zind Humbrecht Riesling, which I thought might be too old, but it was great with the ginger and other spices in the duck. With the mushroom soup with had some oloroso sherry (Osborne).
--------------------------------
Fancy dinner:
We started with fingerling potato skins filled with the potato innards mashed with cream cheese, bacon and scallions:

These were the source of our first kitchen disaster of the day. When we went to fry the skins, we discovered that the oil in the fryer had gone rancid, but not before we stunk up the kitchen with a really nasty smell. Ugh. I made Keith fry up some garlic to try to get rid of the stink :-)

Soup of white sweet potato and apple, topped with vanilla oil and apple skin crisps:

This was the result of our second kitchen disaster! The original plan was to make parsnip and asian pear soup, but it came out horribly bitter. I'm not sure if the pear was bad, or if they just don't cook right. Anyway, we came up with this soup instead, and it was pretty good. The vanilla oil was made with our newly acquired POUND of vanilla beans--less than $20 including shipping! (Jason, please take some away if you want!)

Carbonara made with perciatelli (like very thick spaghetti with a hollow center):


Steak with wilted arugula and mashed potatoes with lots of butter and cream

We picked up this ribeye at Savenor's, and it was probably the nicest piece of meat I've ever purchased. We just seasoned with salt and pepper, then seared the hell out of it in a cast iron pan and finished in the oven.

Finished with bananas foster on vanilla ice cream, but it was devoured too quickly for photos